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02 37 47 22 33Feminist Seamstress
Chapter 10
MARGUERITE, SEAMSTRESS, THE INFLUENCER OF HER TIME From ready-to-wear to haute couture, from creation to runway, fashion is everywhere, all the time! It reflects the evolution of our society. It permeates our lives. The origin of Haute Couture is attributed to Charles Frédéric WORTH. This young British couturier settled in Paris and in 1858, at 7 Rue de la Paix, established the first true Fashion House. Fashion design at that time was predominantly a male affair. But even before that, it was a woman, Marie-Jeanne Bertin, known as Rose, the official milliner of Marie Antoinette, who was the Coco Chanel of the 18th century. This seamstress laid the groundwork for haute couture by freeing the female body while adorning her creations with embroideries, lace, and rose petals. She lightened silhouettes with lighter hoops, introduced rural fashion, muslin dresses, canvas corsets, and even maternity dresses! Rose was more than a seamstress; she was an artist who knew how to embellish a dress or a hat with a thousand accessories, each more delightful and original than the next. Marguerite, a resident of the château, was an apprentice of Charles Frédéric WORTH. She was a precursor of fashion shows by having her models wear her designs on real mannequins in prestigious salons. From a young age, Marguerite knew she wanted to pursue a career in fashion, not just as a seamstress, but as a creator. She crafted unique and unprecedented designs, drawing inspiration from her reference, Rose, while continuing to simplify and lighten fashion. She skillfully employed flamboyant fabrics, fluid ribbons like water, irresistible neck adornments, and translucent lace. Her style, inspired by past eras, was profoundly modern. Marguerite aimed to free women's movements from sartorial constraints. Through subtle touches, she even managed to make the crinoline disappear. Already, she used her creations to convey feminist messages. Like Rose Bertin, Marguerite was one of the influencers of her time, constantly setting new trends! Gradually, she knew, Marguerite would lose her sight and, consequently, her profession as a seamstress, her passion. No trace of her presence at the château would be found, except for a hairpin that you can discover on the dresser in the room. "In order to be irreplaceable, one must be different." Coco Chanel
